{"id":48,"date":"2018-12-03T06:46:05","date_gmt":"2018-12-03T06:46:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/dev.zpowersteering.com\/?page_id=48"},"modified":"2025-04-28T03:19:13","modified_gmt":"2025-04-28T03:19:13","slug":"installing-the-zpowersteering-kit-on-your-z","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/?page_id=48","title":{"rendered":"Installing the Zpowersteering Kit on your Z"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Congratulations, and thank you for purchasing a power steering conversion kit from Zpowersteering.com. As Z enthusiasts, we\u2019re super-excited to help our fellow Z owners get the full enjoyment out of their Z for many, many years to come.<\/p>\n<p>Installation of the kit is relatively simple, and NO WELDING is required!\u00a0 \u00a0You\u2019ll want to set aside some time to do it \u2013 For someone who isn\u2019t mechanically-gifted, I\u2019d estimate 6 hours.<\/p>\n<p>Ready to get started?<\/p>\n<p>You\u2019ll want a helper handy \u2013 Friend, spouse, kids \u2013 no matter \u2013 They\u2019ll be needed a couple times to lend an extra hand during the swap.<\/p>\n<p>NOTE:\u00a0 As we&#8217;re continually improving upon our design, and suppliers make cosmetic changes to components, some of the pics and instructions may no longer be applicable.\u00a0 Rather than try and redo the entire installation instructions, one of our customers did a FANTASTIC job of documenting his install.\u00a0 Give it a watch and you&#8217;ll see, he&#8217;s FAR better in front of a camera than I am!<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Datsun S30 Electric Power Steering Install and Review\" width=\"980\" height=\"551\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/6Iw0bYiR0pI?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>1) Disconnect the battery, remove the horn pad and shaft nut and disconnect the horn ground wire. Pull the steering wheel off the shaft. NOTE: sometimes, this requires penetrating oil, a helper to whack the backside of the steering wheel at 3 and 9 o\u2019clock while you pull, or a steering wheel puller (Harbor Freight has them, or you can rent one from a local auto parts store). Leave the wheel nut threaded on a couple threads, so you don\u2019t whack yourself in the face with the steering wheel \u2013 OUCH!<\/p>\n<p>2) Remove the plastic clamshell from the steering column \u2013 there are philips-head screws in the bottom that secure it around the column. Be gentle, this is 50-year-old plastic.<\/p>\n<p>3) Unplug the turn signal switch and light switch, as well as the ignition switch. These three plastic plugs are pretty easy to see \u2013 You may have to work at them a bit, they\u2019ve been living together for 50 years! NOTE: Upon reinstallation, smear some dielectric grease on the mating surfaces of the plugs. Next time you have to unplug them, it\u2019ll be simple.<\/p>\n<p>4) Remove the turn signal, light switch, and ignition switch from the column. This part is pretty self-explanatory. If you\u2019ve never removed an ignition switch, you\u2019ll notice two of the screws have smooth heads \u2013 Well, how the HECK do I get them out? Here\u2019s a great tutorial \u2013 it\u2019s simple:\u00a0 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=6Tq3UcEzQTw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Removing Ignition Switch Screws<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>5) Under the dash, there are 2 (or 4, depending on the year of your Z) bolts holding the column to the bottom of the dashboard. Loosen them, but don\u2019t take them all the way out yet.<\/p>\n<p>6) At the firewall, there are 4 bolts in a plate that holds the steering column to the firewall. Remove them as well, and set them aside.<\/p>\n<p>Take a break, and go open the hood again \u2013 This is the toughest part of the project, but it goes by quickly.<\/p>\n<p>7) Find the steering coupler \u2013 It\u2019s the rubber \u201cbiscuit\u201d about 5\u2033 down the steering column from the firewall. Here\u2019s what it looks like:\u00a0<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/files\/2014\/01\/SteeringCouplerDiagram.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s held together by four bolts, and the coupler is made of rubber. This is to dampen some of the deflection coming up through the steering wheel when the front wheels encounter a bump or a ridge in the road, and it&#8217;s no longer needed.<\/p>\n<p>Loosen all the nuts first \u2013 you\u2019ll have to rotate the shaft to get access to the lower ones. Then take the bolts out one at a time.\u00a0 Remove the coupler and all the plates.\u00a0 Now, all you should have left on the end of the column poking out of the firewall is a small fork with two holes \u2013 you\u2019re almost there!<\/p>\n<p>8) Remember the bolts we loosened in Step 5? It\u2019s time to remove those completely, set them aside, and fish the steering column out of the car. You may need your helper to guide the fork through the hole in the firewall.<\/p>\n<p>Column out? Nice work! Set it aside so you can return it for your core credit. Now, let\u2019s get to the fun part.<\/p>\n<p>NOTE:\u00a0 \u00a0We&#8217;ve made some updates and improvements to the kit since our early units.\u00a0 So, follow along with the steps here:\u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/?p=83\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Early Z column modifications<\/a>\u00a0 When you&#8217;re done, you can return here and pick up at Step 9!<\/p>\n<p>9) Place the new column in the car, and feed the end through the firewall \u2013 Again, that helper will come in handy, especially if you don\u2019t want to lay on the floor!<\/p>\n<p>10) Take the bolts you removed in Step 5 and replace them loosely, so the column will hang under the dash. Do the same with the firewall bolts we removed in Step 6. We\u2019ll tighten all of these later \u2013 For now, we just want them back in their original location so we can work on other things.<\/p>\n<p>11) Assemble the shafts connecting the upper column to the lower splines (at the rack).\u00a0 You may need to wiggle \/ rotate the steering shaft slightly.<\/p>\n<p>12) Rotate the motor on the column so that it is tucked up nicely. This will vary, depending on your Z. It can go to the right or left \u2013 For most installations, rotating it up to the left (above your left knee) is ideal.\u00a0 Once you get it where you want it, have your assistant hold it in that position, and tighten the bolts we left loose in Step 10.<\/p>\n<p>NOTE: On some Z cars, the metal brace that holds the pedal assembly is longer than others \u2013 No rhyme or reason to it, it\u2019s just another of those weird things Datsun did back in the day before quality control was a big deal. This is uncommon, but we have seen it on a few Z cars.\u00a0 In the unlikely case that it interferes with the motor tucking up nicely, you may have to lop off a small chunk of it. This can be accomplished with a hacksaw, an angle grinder, or a cut-off wheel. I used a metal wheel on an angle grinder \u2013 cover your footwell with a tarp or a rubber mat to protect your carpet and vinyl from sparks.<\/p>\n<p>13) Now, we can hook up the \u201cbrain box.\u201d The plugs are self-explanatory, as they only go in one way. The box should be mounted to the firewall, away from the pedals, and MUST be mounted directly to the metal of the firewall. You can get fancy with this part of the install, or you can run a self-tapping screw through the hole and call it done \u2013 it\u2019s your call. DON&#8217;T get tempted to mount it to the underside of the cowl &#8211; punching holes in this area will result in water entering the footwells!\u00a0 The large power wire goes straight to the battery and your small power wire goes to a source that is \u201chot\u201d with the ignition on, also known as a switched 12-volt source. Use a test light or volt meter to confirm that there is 12 volts on this wire when the key is in the On position.<\/p>\n<p>14) Decide where you want your potentiometer \u2013 This is the controller with the dial, and it will allow you to control the amount of assist you get from the power steering. Some people want it easily accessible, some people set it and forget it. That\u2019s your choice. I mounted mine in the cigarette lighter hole \u2013 Easy to reach, and it looks factory. Other customers have mounted it on the side of the console, yet another mounted it where the hazard switch goes, and one extended the wires and mounted it in the glove box. We leave it up to you \u2013 this isn\u2019t critical, as we find most customers set it at 25% \u2013 50% and leave it.<\/p>\n<p>15) For Steps 1 through 4, reassembly is basically the reverse of removal. When replacing your ignition switch, you can leave out the smooth-head screws from Step 4. Or, you can run to the hardware store and find two more that match. They\u2019re not necessary. This is also a great time to clean up your switches, give them a fresh squirt of lubrication, and put a little anti-seize or light grease on the steering column splines before reinstalling the wheel.<\/p>\n<p>16) Reconnect your battery terminal, latch the hood, and start up your Z. Turn the potentiometer all the way DOWN (counter-clockwise) and turn the steering wheel. You\u2019ll find that you can actually turn the wheels lock-to-lock with the car sitting still. Go ahead and take it for a drive, preferably on a route with some tight turns, and adjust your assist to a comfortable level.\u00a0 Typically, people leave it at 25% to 50% for best results.<\/p>\n<p>NOTE:\u00a0 If you encounter an issue, DO NOT start taking things apart. I hate to have to say this, but we have had a few customers try to modify or diagnose the system themselves. We <strong>WILL NOT<\/strong> warranty your system if you tamper with it. <em>You may be an ASE-Certified technician, but the rules still apply. Contact us if you have an issue.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Also &#8211; On rare occasions, we have seen installs where the motor will want to rotate slightly under hard assist.\u00a0 This is perfectly normal.\u00a0 The set screws are very easy to overtighten &#8211; so, don&#8217;t be tempted to go that route.\u00a0 The fix involves securing the motor body.\u00a0 In order to not run afoul of any regulations, we had to retain collapsibility of the column, which required those darned set-screws &#8211; and there are no detents for them, just a friction-fit.\u00a0 Not my first choice of engineering solutions, but it keeps the attorneys happy.<\/p>\n<p>Here&#8217;s the solution if you do have this issue:\u00a0 Obtain a large hose <span class=\"il\">clamp<\/span> (preferably a nice SS V-band), big enough to go around the motor casing, and there&#8217;s actually a perfect spot at to attach it on the bracket where your brake light switch is mounted.\u00a0 Pass the threaded part of the <span class=\"il\">clamp<\/span> through the hole there, add a washer and a second nylock nut, and your problem is solved.\u00a0 Typically, you just want it to support the weight of the motor (canister) and reduce any rotational tendency.<\/p>\n<p>One of our customers fabbed up a little L-bracket to join the <span class=\"il\">clamp<\/span> to the pedal brace (remember, the tolerances on the S30 cars were WAY off from car to car, so yours may be a bit different &#8211; attached are a couple pics to give you an idea of what it should look like:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-811\" src=\"http:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/013-1-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/013-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/013-1-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/013-1-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/013-1-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/013-1-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/013-1-416x234.jpg 416w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-812\" src=\"http:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/010-1-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/010-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/010-1-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/010-1-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/010-1-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/010-1-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/010-1-416x234.jpg 416w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-813\" src=\"http:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/011-1-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/011-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/011-1-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/011-1-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/011-1-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/011-1-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/011-1-416x234.jpg 416w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/>We hope you found this installation tutorial easy to follow, and we wish you years and years of safe, enjoyable motoring in your Z.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Congratulations, and thank you for purchasing a power steering conversion kit from Zpowersteering.com. As Z enthusiasts, we\u2019re super-excited to help our fellow Z owners get the full enjoyment out of their Z for many, many years to come. Installation of the kit is relatively simple, and NO WELDING is required!\u00a0 \u00a0You\u2019ll want to set aside [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-48","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/48","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=48"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/48\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":815,"href":"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/48\/revisions\/815"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zpowersteering.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=48"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}